3 ton central heat and air unit

#33 of 67 brands of central air conditioners 36% of customers recommend Read more about AMANA central air conditioners ASX13 ASX14 ASX16 ASXC18 Distinctions RCC Prestige II RCE Prestige Ultra RSD Ultron VCA I would select below "very unsatisfied" if that was an option. Had to replace the outside unit in 2014. Luckily it was under warranty but still had to pay for labor. I've had it "fixed" 3 times so far in 2016 and it's not cooling again. I even tried changing repairmen but neither one could keep this pile of junk running. Don't be fooled by the "lifetime warranty" - what that means is that it won't work right After 1 year, it broke. It's 90 degrees and no air. Ten year warranty is no good if service stinks. They can't get to us for 2 days. Not even used one season and water is pouring out of the return. installer ( who is on the Amana website) never returned to fix it. another Amana service company and spent $125.00 for them to look at it.

They said it would cost $400.00 to fix. They said that the part is not under warranty, it is extra. So, a part to keep my AC from leaking all over my ceiling, walls and floor is extra? We have had our unit for about 7-8 years. At 43 degrees the gas heat is coming on when it should not be.
cab air conditioning unitsThe gas heat is secondary, the heat pump
ge in wall ac unitsThere is evidently something wrong with the heat pump.
air conditioning unit quote only that but the company that did our furnace and heat pump would not come out to see why our furnace or heat pump would not turn on duringWe are no longer going with ******* ******* ** ***We could have frozen. But thanks to Sunset Heating we got our heat back on.

I bought 2 Amana A/C-heating systems (a 4 ton and a 3 ton) 4.5 years ago and I couldn't be happier. I clean the outside coils once a year and change the filters once every 1.5 months. Except for that they haveThe smaller unit's compressor seems to be a little louder from my bedroom but when I go outside I don't hear the difference between the 2. I wrote a review after the 1st year and still believe it is the installer that makes the difference between a good unit and a bad one. He installed 2 identical units for one of my neighbors and a 3 ton for another 1 year after mine and only 1 service call since on all 5 units. We have an Amana 14 SEER AC unit that was installed in 2012. functioned very well so far with no problems. I had a 17-year old AC system that I knew was well beyond its life cycle, yet it performed well with annual check-ups. I decided to replace the system while a federal energy tax rebate system was in place.

Two years after installing the Amana system, the coil started to leak gas. The local AC company performed a colored gas leak test, though unfortunately they did not bring the necessary UV lamp to confirm leakage. As a consequence, the system ran very inefficiently for the following summer season. The following spring, in the third year of ownership, a leak in the coil was confirmed. The coil was replaced, and while still under warranty, I paid nearly $900 for replacement labor. Now, during the fifth year of ownership, the system is again not cooling efficiently, and everything points to a gas leak at the coil. There are other AC systems similarly priced, so I am extremely disappointed that my investment price has increased substantially. Location: San Antonio, TX Purchased an Amana 4 ton gas system in April 2008. In September 2009, I had to replace a leaking coil. On April 15, the system is leaking again. says they quit carrying the Amana brand due to the problems.

try a stop leak on my system now if I pay the service charge and if I wait until fall and the coil is the problem again it will cost me $800 toApparently the dealer feels it is my problem alone. have to replace the system it won't be this dealer. Amana is the best brand. Location: Vero Beach, FL This unit has broken down at least 4 times in the 5 years we haveIt was new when we bought our new home. serviced and still we have trouble. Today the air handler fan stoppedYou need to make a better product. I definitely would not buyWelcome to New Central Air Conditioner WarehouseThe dehumidification control must open the control circuit on humidity rise above the dehumidification set point. Blower Motor HP3/4 HP Condenser Motor HP1/5 HP District Of Columbia (DC) What do you need help with? 3909 Pennsylvania Ave SE 2025 Fairland Road , 12706 Laurie Drive , 5819 Broadmoor St. , Perfect Temp Heating and Cooling Company

6026 Curtier Drive, Unit F , to a Pro Now (please select the service you need below)This instruction is a summary of the basic rules and applies to most applications. For help with designs, remember that we offer a free Duct Design Service as well. For applications outside the scope of this guide, contact our customer service team, or your local representative. • Minimum 6 - 2" outlet, Minimum 5 - 2.5" Per Ton (3.5 kW). For refrigerant cooling applications the airflow must be between 200 and 250 CFM per nominal ton [27 to 33 L/s per nominal cooling kW]. For hot water or chilled water systems, refer to performance charts to determine the required airflow. The allowable airflow range per outlet is 20 to 40 CFM [9.4 and 19 L/s], where the typical outlet will deliver 35 CFM [17 L/s] if the plenum static pressure is 1.5 inches [0.37 kPa] and the branch duct length is 10-foot (3 meter) without any balancing orifices. Therefore, the average project will require about six 2" outlets per nominal ton [6 outlets per 3.5 kW] although more will be needed if the branch ducts are longer, balancing orifices are used, the plenum static pressure is less than 1.5 inches of water [0.37 kPa], or it is desirable to make the system as quiet as possible.

For example, two runs with 50% balancing orifices are equal to one branch run without any orifices.For supply ducts longer than 10 feet (3 meter), the air is reduced in that run by 10% for every 5 feet over 10 (every 1.5 meter over 3 meters). For example, a 30 foot [9 meter] run is 60% of an outlet that is 10 foot [3 m] yielding a reduction of 40% (30-10=20, 20÷5=4, 4×10=40%). • Consider Traffic Pattern. Place outlets out of traffic pattern. A corner, 5-inch [127 mm] from each wall, is a good location, or along walls, or in soffits blowing horizontally. Consider floor outlets (with screens) for units located in basement. Slotted outlets can be used for high wall locations or in ceilings where there is insufficient room for bending tubing. • Allow for Aspiration. Locate outlets so the air stream does not impinge on any objects or people – at least 3 feet [1 m] away. Use outlet deflectors and outlet balancing orifices sparingly as they disrupt the aspiration. • Minimize Length, Minimize Restriction.

Keep the supply duct length as close to 10 feet [3 m] as possible and never less than 6 feet [1.8 meters]. Use the fewest number of bends as possible. Maximize the radius of any bends making sure the bend in the sound attenuator tubing near the outlet is at least 6-inch [152 mm]. • Maximize Length, Minimize Restriction. Run main trunk (plenum) as long as possible; it is better to lengthen the plenum if you can shorten even two outlet runs. Use full flow tees with turning vanes (when applicable) and full flow elbows. The maximum total plenum length is 150 ft [45 m]; consider the first tee equal to 30 ft [9 m] and elbows equal to 15 ft [4.6 m].When using a tee split the flow as close to 50/50 as possible – no more than 60/40. Always use a turning vane.Turn the tee 90° to make a side branch with no more than 30 percent of the air. Do not use a turning vaneUse a tee at least 24 inches [610 mm] off the unit. For the 4860 unit, use 10-inch [254 mm] metal up to and including tee;

then use 9-inch [229 mm] in both directions. For the 3642 unit, use 9-inch [229 mm] insulated metal up to and including tee; then use 7-inch [178 mm] in both directions. If possible, close the horseshoe into a perimeter loop.For the 4860 unit, use 10-inch [254 mm] insulated metal or fiberglass duct for the first 30 percent; then reduce to 9-inch [229 mm] if desired. For the 3642 unit, use 9-inch [229 mm] insulated metal or fiberglass duct for the first 40 percent; then reduce to 7-inch [178 mm] if desired. For the 2430 unit, 7-inch [178 mm] may be run the entire length. • 24-inch (610 mm) Rule. Use at least 24-inch [610 mm] of straight plenum before any fitting, such as an elbow, tee, or takeoff. Electric duct heaters require 48 inches [1.2 m]. Avoid elbows directly off units. • Space Takeoffs Evenly. Maintain distance between takeoffs as evenly as possible. Space the takeoffs at least 6-inch [152 mm] apart and 12- inch [305 mm] from end cap.Always use at least 3 feet [1 m] of the UNICO supplied sound attenuator supply tubing (UPC-26C or 226C) at the end of each run.

For runs up to 12 feet [3658 mm], you may use the sound attenuator for the entire run. For greater lengths, use the aluminum core supply tubing (UPC-25 or 225) with a 3 foot [1 m] sound attenuator at the end. • Return Air Duct Attenuation. Use the UNICO Return Air Duct (UPC-04), duct-board, or sheet metal with acoustical duct liner. Never use flex duct with a solid plastic liner in place of UPC-04.Isolate the air handler with foam rubber strips under the unit. Either hang the unit from the structure using angle iron framework under unit (do not hang directly with hooks in the cabinet) or set on a platform. • Secondary Drain Pan. Always use a secondary drain pan wherever overflow of condensate can cause water damage. Do not trap secondary drain line or connect to primary drainpipe. Place secondary drain line exit so that it is apparent when being used. For example, pipe the drain line so it drips on an outdoor windowsill and causes splashing to be noticed.Always trap primary drain line and run drain line per local plumbing codes.

Follow the outdoor section of manufacturer’s instructions for running refrigerant lines. Size and trap per the instructions. • Check Total System Airflow. Check the airflow at each outlet with a Turbometer centered over the outlet. Add up the cfm for all outlets – it should not differ by +/- 5% from the design airflow. • Check Static Pressure (Optional). Measure the external static pressure in plenum 2 feet [610 mm] from unit and before any fitting. Set as close as possible to 1.5 inches of water [0.37 kPa] or less, but no less than 1.0 IWC [0.25 kPa] or greater than 1.8 IWC [0.48 kPa], by providing adequate number of full outlets and minimum plenum fittings (full flow).Measure the amperage and voltage of the motor. Verify that it matches within +/- 5% of the values for the desired (design) cfm in the installation manual or the motor amperage table shipped with each air handler. Also, use a Turbometer® to measure airflow from each outlet. If the total airflow measured by the Turbometer at the outlets is significantly less than airflow determined by motor amperage, check the system for leaks.