Disconnecting Means for Motor and Air-conditioning EquipmentAlready a member of the Fire Engineering Training Network?  If yes, please sign in! Latest Training & Drills Research to help reduce injuries & Deaths Insight from the fire service's most experienced Focus on the Mission for Team Development Culture That Kills: "We Always Did It This Way!" Building Leaders of the Future GENERAL FEATURES• Four-way 2'x2' ceiling-cassette indoor unit for ceiling recessed applications• Built-in drain mechanism for condensate removal; lifts to 19-11/16"• Wide air-flow pattern for better air distribution• Design features ventilation air intake knockout• Long-life air filter included with indoor unit• Indoor unit powered from outdoor unit using A-Control• Choice of fan speed: Low, Medium, High• Automatic restart following a power outage• Limited warranty: five years parts and seven years compressors Ceiling Recessed, 4-Way, SLZ Series Air Conditioner C Series

I've got an old AC unit (probably 13+ years old) that came with the house that I bought. This summer I noticed some water damage on the drywall in the basement, so I cut the damaged drywall away, and found that the pipe coming from my AC unit to my furnace had a bunch of condensation on it that would collect and leak out onto the drywall.used ac units for campers It seems like the spot it's dripping from is the lowest point in the pipe (left and right of this point both bend up)how does a packaged hvac unit work How safe is it to try and bend this pipe (which I'm assuming has freon in it?) so that it's more level?1 ton ac consumes how much power Is there some other kind of insulation I can put on this to prevent the condensation.

Right now its the standard foam tube that you wrap around. drywall air-conditioning pipe condensation Did the problem just start? Is the condensation on the pipe frozen? If so, this is an indication that the compressor is overworked (possibly low on coolant). If you are seeing any frost, you should turn off the system before the compressor burns out and call an HVAC professional. Insulation is wrapped around the coolant line to prevent condensation from forming and causing damage. That insulation may have started to fail. If so, replacing it is an easy enough job. I reccomend you turn off the system for a little while so the coolant line can warm up. Pull off as much of the old insulation as you can and wipe it down to remove any leftover condensation. Then replace it with the tightest-fitting and highest R-value insulation you can find. When re-insulating, be sure to seal all of of the crevices. If the pipe insulation tubes have an open slit in the side, make sure you seal the slits with insulated tape.

If any copper is exposed, it is a point for condensation to form. The coolant line should be completely covered from end to end. I reccomend that you don't bend the pipe. The coolant pressure is somewhat higher than your generic water supply, and if you damage/crack the line, it won't be pretty. Sounds like the insulation around the coolant pipe needs to be sealed better (if air can't get to it, you won't have any condensation). See this similar question: Corrosion on copper pipes due to insulation (with foam) I had the exact same thing happen. In the attic rats had eaten away the rubber insulation. For some reason they love it. Water came through the ceiling into one of the bedrooms. An AC guy came out and said to replace the old insulation with new insulation from Lowes or Home Depot. Total cost of the insulation: $15.Browse other questions tagged drywall air-conditioning pipe condensation or ask your own question.So you’ve found the apartment of your dreams – great neighborhood, great price, beautiful appliances.

You move all your stuff in and settle down for the night when you realize… I CAN HEAR EVERYTHING MY NEIGHBORS DO.You hear your them upstairs walking around in heels on the tile floor, you hear them across the hall slamming their door, and you hear your neighbor’s favorite late night TV shows through the shared wall in your bedroom. You know nothing about soundproofing an apartment, but something has to be done.What do you do? You look up how to soundproof on the internet. The problem with this is that you will probably run into a lot of two things: myths that will waste your time (egg cartons, really?) and solutions that not only cost thousands of dollars, but are meant to be implemented during construction or require permanent modification of your dwelling (which your landlord may or may not be okay with).After you’re done sorting through all this, you come to a few conclusions:Anything that will actually yield satisfactory results when soundproofing a wall or ceiling will not be easy to slap up and tear down when you move out of your apartment.

Noticeable wall and ceiling soundproofing requires that you add massive materials to the structures, and make them airtight. No shag rug hung behind your headboard will keep you from hearing your neighbor’s watching America’s Funniest Home Videos playing at full volume.Blocking the transmission of the sound from one unit to the next will require some modification to the structure of the walls, floors or ceiling. You hear the sound due to the fact that the existing structure is not massive or dense enough to block the sound. Additionally, they may also be connected structurally, allowing sound to be physically transmitted through the studs and drywall. In a rented apartment, you will most likely not be able to modify the existing structure.If you can get approval to have a contractor rebuild or add materials to the structure, you would be considering some of the following materials for use.Your best bet is to identify where the sound is coming from. If it is clearly coming through one shared wall, focus on that area.

If it is loudest near your front door or kitchen window, start there.If the sound is coming through a door, you can purchases a solid core door if your current one is too lightweight and trade it out, putting the original back when you move again. Even with a heavy door, however, sound may still come through the gaps – in which case you may consider acoustical door seals.If the sound is coming through a particular window, cover the window with heavy curtains. If the sound is still too noticeable, consider an acoustical window seal. These seals add an additional pane of glass and create a dead space, reducing sound transmission from outdoor noises. They do, however, need to be installed with screws. Read over your rental agreement and maybe talk to your landlord about whether adding screws to the window frames is acceptable. You can always fill the holes later when you uninstall.Here is a trickier one – airborne sound like television, music, and speech coming through your shared wall.

Mass and isolation are the two things that will definitely do the trick. Both of these are labor intense, though – and require a level of modification that may be hard to sell your landlord on. Damping compound is then your best bet. Not that it doesn’t work – compounds like Green Glue, which are sandwiched between your existing wall and a new layer of drywall can take your wall’s STC (Sound Transmission Class) rating from 40 to 50. Just make sure that if you do go this route, you seal up the gaps in your new drywall with noiseproofing sealant and be sure to seal up any electrical boxes with putty pads. There is no point in putting up sound damping material if you are going to leave weak spots.The trickiest one is impact noise through your floor/ceiling assembly. Damping compound will likely help, but not eliminate the noise. A floor underlayment is normally what we’d recommend, but convincing your landlord or upstairs neighbor that it is necessary to rip up their floor to install may be difficult.