The HP, RPM's and amp ratings all match. The old one was CW only and the new was CW/CCW. I switched the jumper to make sure it was spinning clockwise like the old one. I researched how to wire it and got it installed. It fired up right away and sounded good, no vibrations or anything. The problem is air was blowing down and out of the side instead of out of the top. I immediately thought I installed the fan upside down even though I marked it before removing it from the old unit. I then took a look at the blade closely and the blade has a concave shape that is turned up. From what I understand that is indeed the direction the concave shape of the blade should point. Additionally, the blade is slightly discolored on the edges, but curiously in the counter-clockwise direction. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, the arms that the blades are riveted to and the mounting hub are under the blades when looking down. So, I know it's definitely installed correctly. Next, I took a look at the wiring on the contactor.

When I removed the old motor, I cut the wires and left them connected so I knew exactly where they were when installing the new motor. Then, I noticed something strange on second inspection. Black was on L2 instead of L1 like on every post I found online on how to install this motor. It was this way for sure from before, I did not confuse anything. air conditioning repair wall unitsI waited until just before I installed the new one to remove it from the terminal.window ac units carrier I'm wondering if the initial installer reversed L1 and L2 to get the old motor to spin counter-clockwise. hvac fan coil unitI know that's possible with DC motors, but I don't know if that was common practice. My first instinct was to just switch the directional jumper on the new motor, but if it's currently hooked up backwards, I don't want to leave it that way.

Yes, the concave shape should always curve in the direction of the air flow... Switching the L1 and L2 wires wouldn't change the motor's direction and the colors are a bit arbitrary since this is a 220V circuit. Verify that it is 220V and that neither wire is the neutral, then mark the white wire with black electrician's tape to signal that it is "hot" too. It's a common thing to switch the polarity of the start windings relative to the run windings to change an AC motor's direction. These are usually yellow and orange wires, and the previous installer may have switched these. If you can't tell that this kind of switch was done, don't worry about it and set the new motor's jumper to get it spinning in the right direction. But, if you aren't certain or comfortable with the situation, have an electrician look it over. I bought a house and the A/C condenser fan was spinning counterclockwise (blowing through the sides and sucking from the top). I guessed the capacitor was bad, but it turned out it was good.

I pulled the dual capacitor out and found the wires had been connected wrong. I followed the 2 wires from the fan and switched them. Either one of them must be on the "fan" port and the other on the "common" port, along with one wire from the condenser. The A/C is now functioning fully and properly, both from this change and from a good cleaning of the evaporator coils, condenser coils, blower fan, and drip pan and tube. There is a fin comb to help straighten the fins. I installed a new dual capacitor and the fan started spinning the wrong way, after testing the fan- common terminals ( 5 mf either way ) I reversed the terminals and now the unit is working OK, so the position of the terminals determined the direction of the fan rotation.Browse other questions tagged air-conditioning fan electric-motor or ask your own question. Condenser Fan Rotation Direction IF YOUR INSPECTOR IS NOT USING THERMAL IMAGING, YOU'RE NOT GETTING THE WHOLE PICTURE �Jeff Pope JPI Home Inspection Service

Santa Clarita Home Inspection Find an InterNACHI certified Vermont Home Inspector (and anywhere else in North America) Re: Condenser Fan Rotation Direction Originally Posted by jpope As a Professional Home Inspector, I support the privacy of my clients. Services provided in East MN and West WI Doesn't that mean that it's sucking heat into the house instead of blowing it out, if it's a heat pump it will be even worse in winter as it will suck in more cold. From the " if you can't blind them with science, baffle them with BS school of philosophy" I'd like to think this helps ......................... but we all know better "To realize our true destiny, we must be guided not by a myth from our past, but by a vision of our future." NACHI Education & Training Consultant Commercial property Inspection Tampa, Orlando, Sarasota, Jacksonville, Ft Launderdale, Miami, Florida.NACHI cell 484-429-5466Home inspection Clearwater, St Petersburg, Tampa.

B.A. King Home Inspections, LLC Serving Charlotte NC area and Rock Hill SC areas. CMI Certified Master Inspector and Independent License NC2449 and SC1597 "Discovery consists in seeing what everyone else has seen and thinking what no one else has thought." - Albert Szent-Gyvrgyi, Nobel Prize for Medicine 1937 A fan blade is designed to run in one direction, otherwise it only moves about half of the air it should be. That coupled with the dynamics of a condenser unit design, the ambient air is going to balloon or mushroom inside the unit rather than go out through the coils effectively. High heat build up, high head pressures, inefficient is an understatement. I am surprised it is still working, judging from the rusty casing on the condenser moter, it appears to have been there for a while. I had one lady build a wooden box around her outside unit with a few holes drilled in it and then could not make her understand why her Heat pump sucked (really really sucked) at cooling the house.

Air flow is the critical factor in HVAC. The air is the medium that carries the heat away or brings it in, in the case of a heat pump. You start screwing with air flow, watch all the efficiency fall away. Homeowners never think of the HVAC until it stops working but it is the most abused / neglected piece of equipment in the home....and the most expensive. A 14 degree differential is fine in my book. FLIR (ITC) CERTIFIED BS THERMOGRAPHERFLIR (ITC) CERTIFIED LEVEL 1 THERMOGRAPHER Originally Posted by dvalley Hi Dave, you have to factor in location, and seasonal variations. down here (and California) and many of the southern states a 14 degree Delta T just doesn't overcome the homes cooling losses/ thermal gain, in NE you are mostly trying to cool down from high 80's at relatively low humidity, down here we are trying to cool from high 90's at 90%+ humidity. efficiency is king down here or the unit has to run all day. Originally Posted by gbeaumont Hmmmm. Thanks for the info.