Step 1 / 3:Edit First, tell us little about your home: Tell us about your needs and we'll recommend the right system for you and your home. WHAT TYPE OF SYSTEM ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? Continue to Step 2 Continue to Step 2 Insider’s Price Guide to a New Heating and Cooling SystemHome / How To Advice / Estimated Remodeling and Repair Costs Kitchens Roofing Floors Additions Costs Build addition $70 to 120 per square foot Enclose porch $5,500 to 15,000 Drywall ceiling over plaster $1.50 to 2.00 per square foot Basement Costs Convert basement to legal rental unit $30,000 to 50,000 Bathroom Costs Remodel bathroom $7,000 to 12,000 Add half bathroom $3,500 to 5,000 Add full bathroom $7,000 to 12,000 Electrical Service Costs Increase service to 200 amps $700 to 1,200 Run separate electrical lines $150 to 300 Install connectors on outlets (of aluminum wired homes) $15 to 20 per connection/ $2,000 to 3,000 (whole house) Exterior Costs Regrade lawn $500 to 1,500 New gutters and downspouts $2.50 to 3.50 per linear foot Fireplaces Costs Build masonry fireplace $3,300 to 4,800 Install prefabricated fireplace $1,800 to 2,300 Reline chimney with terra cotta $2,000 Floors Costs Sand and finish wood floors $1.50 to 3.30 per square foot Install ceramic tile floor $11 to 22 per square foot Install vinyl tile floor $2.64 to

5.34 per square foot Install wall-to-wall carpet $3.38 to 6.61 per square foot Garages Costs Build single car garage $6,000 to 9,500 Build double car garage $8,000 to 12,000 Heating and Air Conditioning Costs Replace warm air furnace $1,500 to 3,800 Replace electric heat pump $2,200 to 3,600 Replace central air conditioning system (electric) $1,500 to 3,000 Replace central air conditioning system (gas) $2,600 to 3,500 Install humidifier $300 to 550 Install electrostatic air cleaner $500 to 750 Replace hot water boiler $2,500 to 3,500 Install attic ventilation $250 to 450 Insulation Costs Insulate attic / basement $.75 to 1.20 per square foot Kitchen Costs Remodel kitchen $8,000 and up Plumbing Costs Hot water heater (40-gallon capacity) $400 to 650 (40-gallon capacity) $300 to 550 Install new well $3,000 to 5,000 Install new septic system $3,000 to 5,000 Install sump pump $400 to 500 Install French drain and sump pump $2,000 to 3,500 Roofs Costs Asphalt / fiberglass shingles- Install over existing shingles $1 to 1.20 per square foot Remove existing shingles and install news $1.30 to 1.75 per square foot Windows Costs Install storm windows $60 to 100 each Replace existing windows $250 to 500 each back to top (c) 1995-2000 Freddie Mac.

Reproduced with permission from Freddie Mac. Inside Old House Web**Min. Free Exhaust Area Req'd, 12 sq. ft. *No-Cut Joist Shutter-OPENING SIZES - Installs centered on a joist with 16" or 24" centers. Cut two openings, one on each side of center joist per shutter model: Opening Size 10 1/4" x 30 1/4"   *To determine the proper size fan, multiply the square feet in your home by the ceiling height. Select the whole house fan, which has equal or greater CFM performance as the calculated figure. THE "COMFORT COOLER" CC3623 SQUARE FOOTAGE RATING IS BASED ON A 3 TO 4 MINUTE AIR TURN OVER. Reduce home cooling bills by up to 90% with the number 1 whole house fan in the world! The steady rise of cost for electricity means this fan will pay for itself in savings over just a few years! Plus many power companies now offer a rebate incentive (some up to $250). With a Whole House attic fan you absolutely cannot lose! Triangle's whole house fans will lower your cooling bills by bringing in cool, fresh air and exhausting warm, stale air, making your home more comfortable.

Moving air at 85? feels as cool as still air at 78?, so you can run your air conditioning unit less. Also rids the home of odors, and can achieve one complete air change per minute. If your house already has an air-conditioning system, use your Whole House attic fan at temperatures of 85? change air filter carrier acor below and the air conditioner at temperatures of 85? replace coil in ac unit costor above, and you'll receive maximum comfort with greatly reduced electricity bills. 10 ton hvac unit costSavings of up to 90% savings are common. The Whole House attic fan keeps you cool while saving you money. It really is this simple and easy. Service-free and quiet as a whisper, these fans come with Triangle Engineering's unique Automatic Belt Tensioning that extends motor life and eliminates the need for manual belt adjustments.

The existing soffits, gable louvers, turbine ventilators and ridge vents in your attic serve as outlets for the old hot air. Fabricated from heavy steel with a baked powder-coat finish, these fans are durable and whisper quiet. Along with Triangle's automatic ceiling shutters, the Comfort Cooler or Comfort Aide is an easy-to-install, service-free unit.FEATURES:Sealed ball bearings for long life Wall switch included Comes with 1"x 4" wood frame, ready to install UL listed 2 SPEED TYPE = Whole House CFM LOW = 7,100 VOLTAGE = 115v WEIGHT (lbs) = 82 CFM HIGH = 10,600 SPEED(s) =  2 HP =  1/2 BLADE DIA. (in) = 36 RPM = 415 - 275 NO. OF BLADES = 4 MOTOR = ODP AMPS = 8.2 DRIVE =  Belt PHASE = 1 WARRANTY = 3 Year *NOTE - ALL FANS WILL INCUR A 40 % RESTOCKING FEE IF THE FAN IS RETURNED WITHIN 30 DAYS. PLEASE BE SURE OF FAN SIZING AND FAN TYPE BEFORE ORDERING. DIMENSIONS: A = 40" B = 4" C = 15"Extension > Environment > Housing Technology > Indoor environmental quality > Common questions about heat and energy recovery ventilators

For the past two decades there has been mounting evidence that dependence on the natural exchange of air between the indoors and outdoors through air infiltration and exfiltration may not be satisfactory for good moisture control and indoor air quality. It also has become increasingly obvious that traditional ventilation methods, like opening a window or use of a common bath fan, are not providing adequate ventilation. A properly designed and installed ventilation system is the key to positive moisture control and will help ensure a healthy indoor environment for the occupant. This publication discusses selecting and maintaining heat recovery ventilators and energy recovery ventilators (HRV/ERVs). These mechanical ventilation systems use fans to maintain a low-velocity flow of fresh outdoor air into the house (incoming air stream) while exhausting out an equal amount of stale indoor air (exhaust air stream). Fresh air is supplied to all levels of the house while stale air is removed from areas with high levels of pollutants and moisture (Figure 1 & 2).

Option 1 for fresh air distribution with a mechanical ventilation system. If connected to a forced air heating/cooling system, intermittent operation of a fan is required for distribution.Option 2 for fresh air distribution with a mechanical ventilation system. This system is primarily for use in homes without a forced air heating or cooling system.. Residential mechanical ventilation systems are used to bring fresh air into and remove stale air from our homes. Two common types are exhaust-only systems and balanced systems. The exhaust-only system has a fan to provide exhaust air; the supply air is not fan powered. The balanced system uses a fan-powered exhaust airflow that is designed to equal the fan-powered supply airflow. The balanced systems may or may not have heat or energy recovery. Those with heat or energy recovery are commonly called an HRV or ERV. An HRV transfers heat while an ERV usually transfers heat and moisture. The most common HRV/ERVs are duct-connected house units.

Other types of HRV/ERVs are wall or window room units. These are more often found in multifamily dwellings than in single family dwellings. The duct-connected units are more effective because they provide for a better distribution/pickup of air. The fan component of the duct-connected system is commonly installed in the utility or furnace room. It should be easily accessible for regular cleaning, air filter replacement, and servicing. Every home (new and old) needs ventilation to bring in fresh air, to remove stale air, and provide moisture control. Effective July, 1999, new homes constructed in Minnesota will be required to have a mechanical ventilation system to supply outdoor air for the people inside the home. An HRV/ERV is one mechanical ventilation system that offers convenience, comfort and building durability. In new construction, the connections should be roughed in if, for budget reasons, you do not install the HRV/ERV during construction. A good mechanical contractor is the key to success.

If you are building a new house or remodeling, ask your building contractor about the mechanical ventilation options or check the yellow pages for heating and cooling contractors. A contractor experienced in ventilation should be able overcome any obstacles related to the installation. This would include balancing the system and verifying flow to all pickup points and insuring proper application, i.e., sizing, location of inlets and outlets, and zone control. Costs can vary a lot depending on the type and complexity of the installation, as well as on the size and features of the HRV/ERV. For new construction, the costs would normally run from $1,000 to $2,500. It will generally cost more for a retrofit, due to the difficulty of running ductwork to the source points. Volume (or non-source point) ventilation systems can be installed at a lower cost, but may not be as effective and will require the furnace fan to run continuously. An HRV/ERV requires service and electricity to run the fan but it provides an opportunity for heat recovery.

All homes need ventilation air that must be heated in winter and may be cooled and dehumidified in summer. John Bower (1995)1 calculated the cost for 80 CFM of continuous balanced ventilation in several U.S. cities, including Minneapolis, Minnesota, with and without heat recovery. A typical annual cost of 80 CFM of continuous ventilation was calculated at $86 with heat recovery and $188 without heat recovery. Of these amounts, approximately $42 is the cost of the electricity to run the 60 W fan).2 Systems requiring the furnace fan to run continuously will have additional costs for operation. Continuous operation of a typical furnace fan for heating or cooling and circulation would range from $0.40 to $1.00 per day. The incoming fresh air is tempered with a heat or energy recovery core. Heat is exchanged through a core that is frequently made of multiple plates of aluminum or plastic. Water vapor is transferred with a rotating wheel with desiccant material or permeable plates. Models with heat recovery only transfer heat from the exhaust air stream to the incoming air stream in the heating season and from the incoming air stream to the exhaust air stream in the air conditioning season.

Models with heat recovery and moisture recovery transfer heat and moisture from the exhaust airstream to the incoming air stream during the heating season, and transfer heat and water vapor from the incoming air stream to the exhaust air stream during the air conditioning season. Discuss these options with your mechanical contractor. Systems are tested and rated for performance. An independent laboratory such as the Home Ventilation Institute (HVI) should certify tests and ratings. You can compare these performance ratings for: You can also compare the warranty coverage on installation and parts such as fans, cores, and controls. New homes must comply with the Minnesota Energy Code. The mechanical ventilation requirement is for airflow and does not require energy recovery. It is based on the number of bedrooms with a minimum airflow of 15 CFM/bedroom + 15 CFM and a total ventilation capacity equal to 0.05 CFM/square foot. Additional ventilation may be needed for special needs such as crafts/hobbies and excessive moisture generated by the occupants or by foundation moisture.4

It depends on HRV/ERV duct design, bathroom airflow requirement, and manufacturer's guidelines. A kitchen exhaust fan is still needed to remove grease and combustion gases. High capacity kitchen exhaust systems (downdraft or range hood with an airflow of greater than 250 CFM) present problems with natural draft combustion appliances and separate makeup air will be needed. If your unit exchanges moisture, you may not need a dehumidifier. While an HRV/ERV will reduce the cooling load added by the ventilation, it will not eliminate the need for an air conditioner. If it gets too dry you may need to use a humidifier or temporarily reduce the airflow. Dryness is more likely to happen if the unit exchanges heat but not moisture. You may wish to discuss this with your contractor. Check the owner's manual. Typically maintenance can be done by the homeowner and includes the following: The homeowner should also service (oil if needed) and clean fans every 3-6 months, and annually clean grills and inspect ductwork for any leaks or obstructions.

In addition, a professional should annually check the system and verify that the system is properly balanced. 2Assumptions were: heating with natural gas @ 80% efficiency; cooling with a 10.0 SEER air conditioner; operating a 60 W fan continuously; natural gas costing $0.60/ccf; dehumidification cost being 30% of cooling cost; and an HRV having 70% efficiency. 3For smaller homes (which usually means lower airflow rates and/or high moisture generation), moisture transfer may not be a desirable option in the winter in cold climates. 4For a 1,600 sq.ft., 3 bedroom home: the continuous ventilation requirement would be: (3 bedrooms x 15 CFM/bedroom) + 15 CFM = 60 CFM. The total ventilation capacity must be at least: 1600 sq.ft. therefore the system must have a minimum ventilation capacity of 80 CFM.Bloomington, IN: The Healthy House Institute.Arlington Heights, IL 60004-1893. Minnesota Builder (May/June 1998) St. Paul, MN: Builders Association of Minnesota. Minnesota Department of Administration, State Building Code Division.