The requested URL /discuss/duboard.php?az=view_all&address=105x5356678 was not found on this server.How Can B-Y Help? Have B-Y contact you I Have Frost On My Suction Line! Though refrigeration and A/C share the same basic cycle and many of the same components they also have many differences. Frost is a big difference. Normally an A/C coil temperature stays above freezing. Frost on an A/C coil tells you there is a problem but not so in refrigeration. A refrigeration coil is normally operating at a SST of 25 degrees or less so it won’t just sweat but frost. The fin spacing is much larger on a refrigeration coil to allow for proper air flow thru the coil even if it has frost on it. As the coil builds frost some type of a defrost cycle is needed. On a walk-in cooler especially with an outdoor condensing unit it is a good idea to install a defrost timer to cycle the refrigeration off 2- 4 times a day to allow accumulated frost to melt. The evaporator fans continue to run circulating air across the coil melting the frost.

On a freezer, defrost heaters may be added to melt the ice during a defrost cycle. When heaters are used the fans will shut off during the defrost cycle. Many indoor condensing units run on a low pressure control instead of a thermostat. Adjusted properly the low pressure control will not allow the compressor to turn back on until the coil has warmed up enough to ensure that the frost is gone from the coil. Frost may also indicate a problem in the refrigeration system. When the coil only frosts on the inlet a starveling evaporator is indicated. Low charge, restriction or a TXV that’s out of adjustment are some common causes. I have frost on my suction line! This may indicate a flooded evaporator. A flooding evaporator is being fed more refrigerant than it can’t all boil off and this may slug the compressor. Liquid leaving the evaporator may be indicated by frost on the suction line or compressor. A flooding evaporator may be caused by low load on the evaporator (fans off) or a TXV that’s out of adjustment.

Frosting evenly across the evaporator is what should happen on a properly feeding coil. Check the coil superheat at the evaporator outlet. Normally the superheat should be between 8 and 12 degrees. Too high and the coil is starving. Too low and the coil may be overfed. Proper superheat will indicate the problem is elsewhere. Frost on the suction line or on the compressor may not be a problem at all! 2 ton ac heating unitOn freezers the coil temperature could be -10 or even lower. ac unit walk in coolerWith 10 degrees of superheat the suction line would be 0 degrees. life expectancy of home ac unit0 degree suction gas may cause part of the compressor to frost as well. As long as we have proper or any superheat, even with a frosted compressor there is no liquid getting to the compressor.

In this case the frosted suction line and even compressor are ok! Leaking door gaskets especially inside a building that has high humidity may increase the rate at which frost builds up on a coil. Replacing worn none sealing door gaskets will help keep frost accumulation to a minimum. Bad door gaskets may also prevent the cooler or freezer from holding proper temperature. Since their development in 1902, modern air conditioning units are efficient and relatively trouble-free. Like other major appliances, the equipment can experience mechanical or electrical problems. This guide provides an overview of some of the most common problems that can occur with a central HVAC system. Northwest Indiana homeowners can troubleshoot their systems to identify potential reasons for performance issues. While homeowners can resolve some of these problems, others require the assistance of an experienced heating and air conditioning specialist. An air conditioning system may fail to operate at the beginning of the cooling season.

The unit will not come on if the thermostat is defective or set improperly. Another potential issue may be that your unit is not receiving electrical power. Verify that your thermostat selector is set in the “cooling” position. Some systems have a built-in timer that delays the activation of the equipment. Wait several minutes for the timer to complete its cycle, and adjust the thermostat several degrees below the temperature inside your home. If the thermostat requires calibration, contact a service professional. You should also verify that the appliance is receiving power. Locate your main fuse panel, and determine whether the fuse or circuit breaker for the equipment has blown or tripped. Replace a blown fuse with one that has the same amperage, or reset the circuit breaker. Some units have a breaker panel located near the outside unit. Verify that the breaker inside this electrical box is on or the quick disconnect is inserted properly. If the system continues to have electrical problems, you need the assistance of an experienced repair technician.

One possible reason that HVAC systems blow warm air is dirty filters. The system is producing cold air but it cannot flow through the ductwork. Clean air filters protect your equipment and help it perform properly. HVAC systems work harder as the outside ambient temperatures approach triple digits and may not cool as effectively as you desire. You should also verify that the outside unit is running. If the outdoor unit is on, ensure that leaves and other debris are not obstructing the airflow. An air conditioner that blows warm air can be a sign of insufficient refrigerant. Only licensed air conditioning repair technicians can replenish HVAC coolant. An improperly sized air conditioner will cycle on and off frequently if it is too large for your home. The system will quickly reach the setting on your thermostat and signal the equipment to cycle off. When the temperature drops below the setting on the thermostat, the unit will come on again. Rapid cycling can also occur when an air register is blowing cool air directly on the thermostat.

Several issues can cause a unit to runs continuously. The equipment could be too small to cool the volume of air contained in your home. Another potential problem is that the inside unit turns off but the outside fan continues to run. Turn the thermostat fan switch to the “Off” position. If the fan is still running, you should stop power from flowing to the system. To perform this task, it may be necessary to turn off the circuit breaker supplying the equipment. Low refrigerant levels and faulty relay switches can cause a HVAC to run continually. An experienced HVAC technician can correct these problems. The inside component of an AC system sits inside of a drip pan, which is designed to collect water if the unit’s condensation drain line becomes clogged. This problem can occur when insects build their nest inside the drain line. If water is visible in the pan, you can blow compressed air inside the pipe to remove the obstruction. Prepare a solution that consists of a 50-50 ratio of bleach and water, and pour it into the drainpipe to eliminate mold and mildew.

Clearing the clogged drain line may require the assistance of an air conditioning repair technician. Various problems can cause an AC unit to freeze. One possible reason is improper airflow, which can prevent a HVAC system from working properly. Check your filters and clean or replace them as required. The coils should be free from dirt, debris and other obstructions as well. HVAC systems can freeze if the blower fan is malfunctioning. The cold air will remain inside the unit and freeze the coil if the fan is not working. A faulty control relay can also cause the unit to freeze. The outside unit will continue to run even though the inside unit is off. While a homeowner can clear away debris and change the air filters, replacing electrical components requires the expertise of a certified technician. According to heating and cooling industry studies, regular air conditioning unit maintenance checkups can prevent most HVAC performance issues. Our friendly and knowledgeable Meyer’s technicians can perform seasonal tune-ups on your system.