In this article, we'll show you how to clean and maintain your central air conditioner to keep it running efficiently. We won't demonstrate the maintenance steps for a window-mounted model here. Most central air conditioners have two basic parts: an outdoor unit (compressor/condenser) that sits next to your home and an indoor unit (evaporator) that's located in a central duct near your furnace (Fig. A). If you have a heat pump instead of a furnace, the indoor unit will be in the air handler. Use the same maintenance steps we show here. If your furnace looks different from the one in Fig. A, or you have a heat pump, use the owner's manual to find your way around it. The basic parts will be the same. The most important maintenance steps are fairly simple, but if this is the first time you've cleaned the unit, allow about a half day to carefully work through the steps. If you're not up to the task, call a pro (look under “Air Conditioning Contractors” in your Yellow Pages). Cleaning and servicing a central air conditioner costs $100 to $250.

Fig. A shows a typical central air conditioning/furnace setup. Two copper tubes connect the outdoor compressor and its condenser coil (a “coil” is a combination of fins and tubes) to the indoor evaporator coil that's located in the plenum (Fig. A) above the furnace blower. One tube is covered with foam insulation. If you have a heat pump, both tubes will be insulated. Outside, your main job is to clean the condenser coil (Photos 2 - 4). The fan inside the condenser coil sucks air through the fins, and as a result, pulls dirt and debris with it. Dust, leaves, dead grass and anything else that collects on the fins will block airflow and reduce the unit's efficiency. Grass clippings thrown by the lawn mower and “cotton” from cottonwood trees and dandelions are particularly bad offenders. You might have to clear the fins weekly or even daily during the spring “cotton” season! Always begin by shutting off the electrical power (Photo 1). Then proceed with the cleaning (Photos 2 - 4).

If the fan motor (Photo 3) has lubrication ports, apply five drops of special oil for electric motors (not penetrating or all-purpose oil). You can find oil for electric motors at hardware stores. Many fan motors are maintenance-free—they don't have oil ports (ours doesn't) and can't be lubricated. Check your owner's manual if unsure. The compressor and its motor sit inside the coil (Fig. A). They're usually sealed and won't need maintenance. However, if you have an older compressor that's belt-driven by a separate motor, lubricate the motor through its oil ports. car ac repair in san joseIn every case, keep an eye out for dark drip marks on the bottom of the compressor case or pad (Photo 5). carrier heating and cooling wall unitThis indicates an oil leak; quiet room ac units

the compressor or tubes might be leaking coolant (refrigerant) as well. If you find a leak, call in a pro to check the problem. Don't tighten joints to try to stop leaks yourself! Over-tightening can make the problem worse. And only a pro with proper equipment can recharge the system to the proper level of coolant.> > Air Conditioner Maintenance: A Homeowners Guide Air Conditioner Maintenance: A Homeowners Guide Professional Air Conditioner Maintenance – Learn the Basics DIY Maintenance & Cleaning – What You Can Do When cold weather turns warm, it feels nice. When warm weather turns hot, it might not feel so pleasant. You can always go for the comfort of your air conditioner, but if it isn’t working, you’ll end up feeling the heat. The good news is that there are simple things you can do to help keep your AC in top shape. Professional Air Conditioner Maintenance You should have your air conditioner serviced regularly before the start of the warmer weather.

A professional will come out to inspect and service your AC. This keeps things in running order and helps spot potential trouble. It costs around $125.00 to $175.00 and can save you thousands in repair or replacement costs. The technician will give the unit an overall inspection, looking for any signs of trouble. They will test the voltage, inspect the condition of the belts, vents, and ducts, check the refrigerant, and examine the drainage lines. They should also lubricate any ports that may be present. They will inspect the blower motor and test the thermostat to ensure proper operation. A motor that is drawing too many amps may be about ready to fail completely. A thermostat that doesn’t engage the unit when it’s supposed to could need adjustment or replacing. You should check the air filter every month. The technician will check it as part of the servicing. They should also clean various parts like the compressor, condenser, evaporator coils, air handler, and drainage line.

Finally, they should test refrigerant levels and observe AC function through a complete cycle. If any problems are still present, they should let you know and recommend repairs. Need to find a pro for your A/C maintenance? DIY Maintenance and Cleaning You can do some basic maintenance yourself. Here is what to expect: Cost: $50.00 to $100.00 Time Needed: Less than half a day Butter knife or fin tool ($10.00) Rake and/or pruning shears Soft bristle paint brush ($1.00) Turn off the power to the unit. Turn the condenser switch to the “off” position. At your home’s breaker box, turn off the breaker. You don’t want it turning on while you have your hands near the fan blades!If your condenser is on the roof, there probably won’t be much to clean. If it’s at ground level, you’re more likely to have debris. Remove the grate over the fan and vacuum any debris found inside. With a garden hose, spray the fins from the inside out. (Never use a pressure washer.

The fins are very thin and can damage easily.)They are very thin and bend easily. If you see damaged spots, like where the fins are flattened, straighten them gently with the butter knife or fin tool. Be careful not to damage the tubing within the fins. Rake any ground-level debris away from the condenser and prune any branches or bushes away at least two feet.As soil settles, it’s not unusual for the condenser pad to get off-level. Using shims and the level, you can bring the condenser back to a level position. Clean the evaporator coils. These should be behind a door above where the blower motor is. It might be sealed with foil tape. Open the cover and use the soft paint brush to dust off the coil. Next, spray the coil with coil cleaner, letting it drip into the drain pan. Afterwards, clean the drain pan with soap and hot water. (Adding a drain pan tablet to the pan can help prevent algae growth and costs about $3.50 for a pack of 6.) Make sure the drain flows freely.

If it does, you can skip the next step. Clean the evaporator drain. This is usually a 1-inch PVC pipe coming off the evaporator enclosure. Follow it to where it drains out. Attach the wet/dry vacuum to this end, sealing it with duct tape or with a rag. Remove the vacuum’s filter to avoid damaging it and turn the vacuum on for 2-3 minutes to clear out any blockage.This should be done twice a year on heating/cooling systems; once at the start of the cooling season and once at the start of the warming season. Turn the power back on and let it go through a full cycle. If it’s not cooling like it used to, it’s time to call a pro. This whole project should cost around $50.00. Even if all you can do is change the filter, doing it regularly will save about 15% on your cooling bill. But whether you spend $50.00 to $100.00 to do it yourself or if you spend $125.00 to $175.00 to hire a pro, it’s cheaper than paying several thousands of dollars repairing or replacing your AC.

Maintenance on window or room ac units is a lot less intensive because there are fewer moving parts. Remove front plate and vacuum the coils with a soft brush attachment. If you take the unit outside, you can hose them off if you take care not to get the motor or electronics wet. Inspect the cooling fins and straighten them out with a fin tool. Check drain pan for rust or algae, or check drain pipe for blockage.If it’s damaged, replace it. If it’s just dirty, you can wash it. Let it dry before replacing it. The specifics of an air conditioning unit can vary widely. There are some parts that all units have in common, though: Furnace – This is where the air gets drawn in to be sent through the system to be warmed or cooled as the unit operates. Heat Exchanger – If your unit heats as well as cools, the heat exchanger is where the cold air is warmed up before being blown out to the ducts. Evaporator Coil – This is similar to the heat exchanger except that it cools the air.

Condensing Unit – This is the big box outside. The refrigerant gas is condensed into liquid form and sent through the evaporator coil where it gets turned back into a gas that cools the air. The gas then returns to the condenser and the process begins again. Refrigerant Lines – These are aluminum or copper tubes that run through the system carrying the refrigerant gas. If one of these springs a leak, a professional will be needed to fix it. Thermostat – The thermostat is the control to set the desired temperature. Some elaborate systems can control the temperature in specific areas of your house. Ducts – The ducts are the pathways that the air is pushed through to get into the rooms. They are usually installed during construction of the building. Vents – Vents are the openings for the air to pass through into your rooms. Many have louvres that allow you to direct the air or close it off entirely. Regular maintenance and cleaning of your AC unit will not only save you hundreds (or thousands) of dollars, it will keep you from an unexpected break down that will leave you sweating.