Written The costs of this would depend upon:The age of your system - If you have an older AC unit, the installers may have to do extensive wiring and sheetmetal work to adapt the new unit to your old unit's mounting.The cost of the new unitThe labor rates of the company which is performing the installationThe time of year or of the week when you are having this done.The location of your unit - A roof-mounted unit may cost significantly more than a ground unit as it requires greater levels of difficulty to install.I would suggest getting several estimates from several reputable companies and comparing them. I would also advise against going for the LOWEST bid as this may simply be a ruse by the installer to later charge you more for "discovery work."The installation of a new unit,regardless of its location should NEVER cost you more than 25-50% of the cost of unit. Anything more will almost certainly mean that you are being defrauded.Written Shouldn’t cost you more than half of what you paid for the AC, but you have to take several factors into account like if the AC unit goes in the ground or up on the roof, as well as how old/new the AC system is. 

Know this, you want a company that can do a good job, so while cheaper sounds better…you’ll probably end up spending more later down the line when your having problems. We used binky home and air out of NJ. Plus, with the heat as high as it is nowadays, you wouldn’t want it busting down with over 100F outside.Assuming you already have an installed units with all ductwork and so forth, small square footage furnace and AC can generally run anywhere form $2000-$5000 for each unit, or about $4000-10000 for a combined unit, depending on ease of installation, etc. This assumes your existing plumbing, electrical, ductwork, etc are directed suitable, so it is merely a matter of cutting in a new unit and hooking it up. The lowest price would be for a minimally efficient unit, the upper number for highest efficiency.If you are changing the type of heat (baseboard to forced air or electric to gas, for instance) or installing AC from scratch, then running power, ductwork, etc can up to double that number.

If you live near the coast (and depending on how hot you will let the condo get before cooling kicks in) the cost savings of a high efficiency unit might not pay for itself. Of course, if you are in the San Gabriel Mountains and really need winter heat, or in the Mohave desert or inland valley area and really need serious air conditioning, then a high efficiency unit (which can cost twice as much) might pay for itself in 5-10 years.Your utility company (companies if gas heat with electric AC) can help with guides on how much your savings might be with different efficiencies, and may have an energy efficiency rebate program for efficient units. Also, the California Energy Commission has information and online calculators for that, as well as rebate programs for energy efficiency. There is also a federal energy efficiency rebate program (though it is generally limited to a tax credit equal to 10% of the cost of energy efficient retrofits, unless it is considered an "alternative energy" system).

Pay attnetion to these energy rebate programs - I have a neighbor who, between state and federal program, had the entire cost of his insulation upgrade and furnace/hot wate heater system replacement covered in toto, except for few hundred $ for the initial energy audit. About $8000 in work for about $300, with about $100/month reduction in gas bills.As always with condo units, check with the condo manager and the bylaws to find out what the rules are - some condos require matching units or installation by a certain contractor for ease of maintenance, and in many condos the heating and AC are actually the responsibility of the condo association or the bylaws require that the association handle the installation but you pay the cost5 ton ac unit coverageAlso, major work of this type usually has to be coordinated with the condo manager, and there may be time of day limitations on work hours, etc.air handling unit condition survey

And of course make sure your HVAC contractor, if you end up choosing him, is licensed, bonded, insured, and well recommended, and whether any repairs to walls, floors, ceiling etc necessitated by replacing the system are or are not covered in his bid (he would subcontract this out, or more likely tell you that you need a general contractor to supervize plumber, electrician, plasterer, painter, flooring contractor, etc).how do hvac thermostats work What Does Ductless Air Conditioning Cost? (Image credit: Air Masters) Q: How much does it cost to install a split ductless air conditioning system? I live in a house without central heat, a basement or full attic, so I'm looking into this as an option. Ductless air conditioning is supposed to be quiet and energy efficient, but expensive. Does anyone have any idea how much I could expect to pay for a system like this? Editor: Leave your suggestions for M in the comments - thanks!

• Have a question for our community? Send us yours with a photo or two attached (questions with photos get answered first). A buyer should ask ONLY for things that if not done, they would back out of the purchase of the home. This is a unique and personal choice based on the circumstances.... and that's the type of advice and guidance a good agent can give you because they've been there with you thru the whole process. Some buyers try to "get something" from the seller just because they think they can. Some Agents try to enhance their buyer's bargain by "seeing what they can get" from the seller. I find both approaches distasteful, dishonest and synonymous with stealing. The home inspection is designed to give the buyer a chance to back out of a deal if they discover a major problem and to give the seller an opportunity to resolve a major problem that's just been discovered. The home inspection is NOT an opportunity to give the seller your laundry list of repairs or improvements that you want done!

This is NOT an opportunity for you to enhance your bargain. This is NOT the time to address repair issues that you could/should have seen with your own eyes before you made your offer. This is NOT the time to cover your own lack of home repair experience, your fear of home repair uncertainty or your lack home repair dollars by trying to shift YOUR responsibilities to the seller. If you bargained for an inexpensive home that needs work, that's what you should get. If that's not really what you want or what you can handle, then you should back out of the purchase and find another home instead of trying to get something for nothing from the seller. Remember, ONLY ask for the items you're willing to back out over. That's not to say those items will be "reasonable" or even acceptable to the seller, but you will know exactly where you stand on the purchase and you won't have any regrets later if you get the house or not. I hope that's helpful... if so, click the "thumbs up" below, Joe Montenigro REMAX Home Team

Broker, GRI (856)374-2800 x106 Serving Gloucester Twp, Washington Twp & South Jersey Real Estate Markets Agent, Basking Ridge, NJ You should expect that the seller will address matters that present structural, safety, or environmental risks. This would include any structural issue with the foundation, safety would involve things like electrical/wiring issues, and a good example of environmental would be a high radon level. The home's mechanical systems and appliances are to be in working order. If the furnace is old but functioning, then I do not think it likely that they will replace it, ditto for the air conditioner. Now if either is not working, then I would expect them to repair. A standard seller's disclosure includes the age of the mechanicals, and so you should have known that the system was old and possibly near the end of its useful life when you made your offer. Windows with broken seals is not an uncommon issue, and I would add it to the list of requests - they may replace or throw some money your way for this.

Sidewalk cracks - I doubt they'll do anything here, unless it presents a safety issue, then I'd surely ask. I have seen requests for grading to take water away from the home - the case for action is more compelling if there is water in the basement than if not, but you can certainly ask. Another idea for the furnace and A/C issue is to request a one year Home Warranty, paid for by the Seller and being put in your name at the time of the sale. Be sure that coverage is adequate to cover the furnace and a/c. This will also cover the appliances. What I advise my buyers is this - a handful of items that you really care about is far more likely to get action than a laundry list of every deficiency noted by the inspector. Unwavering Commitment to Service Home Buyer, Chicago, IL Here again agree with Deb - the broken seal, while I see it on many inspection request lists, fact is it is visible to the eye and not a structural matter. And so you should build the issue into your pricing.

While it is unsightly and will grow with time, it does not impact the working of the window. Focus on the important things and do not use this as an opportunity to renegotiate - if you do that you will make it to the closing table, if you do the later, it is anyone's guess. I'm find a bit of a back-lash as sellers are growing weary of heavy handed buyer response to inspection issues. Of course, it is cyclical, we all remember the headiness of sellers refusing to do anything when the market was flying - ah, what a world!! Home Buyer, New York, NY Home Owner, Salt Lake City, UT Home Owner, Columbia, SC Home Buyer, Provo, UT It sounds like the unit at that home is in pretty bad shape. I would say it needs some repairs at least. If it still runs fine than I would think that that would be acceptable by the owner. Home Buyer, Walla Walla, WA , Silver Spring, MD Sounds like quite the old home! Home inspection could cost a lot depending how much is needed to be done.