So, here's the dilemma. I want to install a window unit in my garage. I know how to do this, but my wife isn't supportive of the idea because we are trying to sell the house currently. Anyways, rather than fighting this never-ending battle with her, I'm trying to see if I can somehow still use my window unit without actually cutting a hole in the wall, etc. An idea that I had was to figure out somehow how to route the exhaust to outside. This is obviously an issue because I would need an opening somewhere in my garage. Is it possible to use my window A/C unit in my garage without actually installing it in the wall? You may be able to rig up something whether the compressor-side air intake and exhaust are piped outside, but the efficiency will be low and you may risk burning out the compressor by working it too hard. If you want something you can install in a small opening, you might consider wheeled portable AC units which come with a flexible duct. If you're still determined to try it, note that window AC units have two sets of air intake & exhaust:

the "inside" side that takes air from inside (usually through a large filter on the front), cools it, and blows it back inside the "outside" side that takes air from outside, heats it (with the heat removed from the cool side) and blows it out the back. On a typical window AC unit the "outside" air comes in through vents on the side and top of the unit and is blown out the coils at the back. So you will need to make sure both of those parts are getting the airflow they need. And they can't be the same duct, or else you will just get super hot air recirculating through the unit. You can place the whole unit outside make it water prof. Duct the (inside) which is the inflow side and the cool air to the inside of your garage. If you have an attic access in your garage you should be able to vent it to the attic. If the AC unit is expendable, try running it face down. If it tolerates that, you could set it in the attic, on boards facing down that hatch (until it falls on a buyer/inspector and gets you sued).

If you could rig two ducts through your attic access, but that's going to look much worse.Browse other questions tagged hvac air-conditioning garage or ask your own question.Sorry there seems to have been a system error.hvac unit 22 The file you are looking for may have been moved to anotherhow to install an ac unit in a sliding window location or can't be found in the DataBase.average cost of a 3 ton ac unit Use the Custom search form to find what you are looking for or clickInstallation Guide for PTACs Designed for a wide range of applications, packaged terminal air conditioner units are ideal for hotels and motels, office buildings, schools and apartments. When installing a Zoneline packaged terminal air conditioner or heat pump, the following checkpoints should be followed to reduce future problems.

Wall case must be level from left-to-right. Wall case must be level from front-to-back (1/4 bubble slope to rear is acceptable if rear drains are used. Case must be level if internal drain is used). Wall case should extend at least 1/4″ to the outside for caulking. Wall case must be sealed/caulked to outside wall on all four (4) sides. Wall case should be sealed/caulked to the inside wall on all four (4) sides. Standard steel wall cases are 42″ W × 16″ H × 13 3/4″ D. 16″, 24″, 28″ and 31″ deep cases are available for thicker walls. Wall case must be installed 3″ to 5″ above floor. Wall case must extend at least 2 3/8″ into room. Sub-Base can be used for electrical connections (check NEC & local codes for compliance). Electrical sub-bases are available in 208/230-volt 15, 20 & 30-amp configurations; 265-volt available in 15, 20, & 30-amp configurations. Remote Wall Thermostat (Optional) Zoneline Heat pumps require 6 wires (min) for remote wall thermostat hook-up.

Zonelines with electric heat and cooling require at least 5 wires for digital remote thermostat hook-up. Standard digital and programmable digital thermostats are available for both heat pumps and electric heat models. 208/230-volt applications use power cords for wall receptacle or sub-base applications. 265-volt applications must be direct connected per NEC. Architectural-3-colors available: Beige, Maple, & Bittersweet Chocolate. Architectural-Extruded anodized aluminum (can be painted to match outdoor motif). Stamped-Standard louvered aluminum grille available. Older architectural grilles can be used if RAK40 baffle kit is installed on chassis. Architectural grilles made by others must have 65% free area. These grilles must have properly located baffles/deflectors or RAK40 kits must be installed on chassis. Grilles not supplied by GE Appliances must be approved by a GE Appliances Applications Engineer to ensure compatibility. Drywall and construction dust may set off room fire alarms when the electric heaters are energized.

• Selecting the right accessories for your GE Zoneline Wiring Wall Thermostat (Makeup Air Models Only) When wiring a wall thermostat for the AZ45/AZ65 series Zoneline, use this configuration.Q&A: Do you recommend window or through-the-wall air conditioners? We're going to buy some new room air conditioners and are choosing between through-the-wall units that require a sleeve and window-mounted units. Which do you recommend? If sleeves are installed in your exterior walls, use through-the-wall, or sleeve-type, air conditioners. The sleeves simplify installing and removing the units, and some people prefer the look of through-the-wall models. But sleeve-type air conditioners typically cost more, and you'll have fewer choices when shopping. A couple of things to remember about through-the wall models. The sleeve can restrict airflow or possibly contribute to recirculation of the warm exhaust air back into the louvers on the sides of the units. What's more, unless there's a tight seal inside the room between the sleeve and the air conditioner, warmer outdoor air could enter your home.

Both of these problems will cause your air conditioner to work harder and run more, driving up your electricity bill. If there are no air-conditioner sleeves at your home, go with window-mounted air conditioners. You could add the sleeves, though you'll likely want or have to pay a pro to do the work. No matter which type you choose, be sure you properly install and secure it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Another option is to install a split-ductless air-conditioning system (story available to subscribers). This setup offers some advantages over other room air conditioners and won't cost that much more to install than adding sleeves for through-the-wall models.   When you're ready to shop for your A/Cs, use our free buyer's guide to air conditioners and check out our updated ratings (available to subscribers). To take advantage of a cash for appliances rebate, see our interactive map to determine whether incentives are available in your state. Essential information: Maintain your air conditioners and learn how to cut your cooling costs.