I’m going to be straightforward with you, I don’t like Thermostats that control humidity.  (Unless they are connected to a stand-alone dehumidifier)  Yes, these Thermostats will add a some level of humidity control to your house, but it will be at the expense of odd temperature management. If you set your standard thermostat to 76 degrees your AC will run so that it maintains 76 degrees.  However, the thermostat doesn’t know the % Relative Humidity in your house.  With very tight homes you might have a house at 76 degrees inside, but if it’s 82 degrees outside & 80% Relative Humidity outside this well built home won’t have to work very hard to maintain 76 degrees (meaning the AC won’t come on alot) unless it’s in the upper 80’s or 90’s outside.  Remember that an AC unit controls temperature by running a long time so the coil gets cold and the air running past the cold coil will condense and thus dehumidify the house.  The AC unit needs to run for at least 10 minutes before it’ll control humidity by air condensing on the cold coil. 

On top of this we also generate humidity in our houses by living there; cooking, showering, breathing, all these add moisture to the air inside.  There are lots of times of the year the AC simply won’t run long enough to bring down the humidity inside. Here’s how a standard HVAC system with a Humidity Controlling Thermostat works; the humidity controlling thermostat will tell the AC that even though the inside air is 76 degrees the humidity is too high (say 65% RH), this control module will kick on the AC to control that humidity but the furnace will need to run for 10-15 minutes in order to do any moisture (humidity) removal which ends up taking the house to a lower temperature.  This is what I don’t like about the humidity control on a standard HVAC system.  You’ll walk by the thermostat and it’ll show the set point as 76 degrees but the AC is still going down to 72 degrees in order to bring down the humidity.  It’s hard for people to understand it who are living in the house. 

It’ll make the house too cold just to bring the humidity down. This is why I like the stand alone dehumidifier.  It has it’s own controller that says keep the house at 50% RH.  It’s independent of the the AC unit.  The Dehumidifier doesn’t add cool air to bring down the humidity like the AC does.  It’s more of a low/slow/steady approach to controlling humidity compared to the AC unit which is like a V8 engine that only runs full ON or full OFF.  ac units direct llcThe other benefit is that the AC with it’s large engine uses alot of electricity where as the Dehumidifier runs at a very low 7-8 Amps.  outside ac unit freezes upThe result is a comfortable house year round that uses less power.air handling unit valves If you are considering a Humidity Controlling Thermostat, my advice is don’t. 

Instead add some ability to control humidity apart from you HVAC system.  HVAC+D as I recently heard it.  Here’s a link to what I’ve done in my personal house until I can get an more advanced UltraAire unit installed to control humidity.  Dehumidifier Retrofit – HVAC + D Sikkens Cetol 123 Review: Details for a Long Lasting Wood Siding InstallHeating & Cooling Troubleshooting How to troubleshoot your way out of a heating or cooling problem. Just because your local Carrier® expert is a wonderful person doesn't necessarily mean you want to rearrange your day to have him or her out for a service visit. Instead, try these useful tips. They're just as easy as picking up the phone. If you have an Infinity® system with remote access, you can set up your access to allow your trusted Carrier expert to diagnose potential problems right over the phone. What to do if your air conditioner or heat pump isn't cooling properly. Check to make sure that your control or thermostat is set in cooling mode.

Make sure that the temperature is set cooler than the current indoor temperature. If it isn't, your system won't know to provide cooling. Make sure your outdoor cooling (condensing) unit is running. If not, check the circuit breakers in your home's circuit breaker box (or electrical panel). They should be in the ON position. Check the main power switch for your outdoor unit, usually found within a few feet of the unit in a box mounted to the exterior of the house. Make sure it's in the ON position. Ensure that the blower motor in your furnace or air handler (fan coil) is running. If the system is set for cooling, the blower motor should be running. If not, check to make sure your indoor unit switch is in the ON position. System not cooling enough: Check the filter for buildup. If you have one-inch-thick furnace filters, a once-a-month change is recommended. Two-inch-thick filters-and other high-capacity pleated filters-usually only need to be changed every other month, depending on the type.

If you don't change it, the filter will eventually become so full, it will block the proper airflow and cause your outdoor air conditioner unit to shut down. Check all return air grilles to make sure they are not blocked. Return air grilles are larger and are located on a wall or the ceiling in newer homes. Older homes frequently have return air grilles on the floor. Check all supply registers to make sure they are open and blowing air. If you still don't feel that refreshing flow of cool air throughout your home or your system is under-delivering cooling, it's time to contact your local Carrier expert for service. Other signs that indicate a service call may be in order: Your system is struggling to keep up and seems to be turning itself on and off frequently. Your indoor summer humidity levels seem unusually high. You hear your indoor-unit fan coming on but the air from the registers isn't cool or the fan is turning on and off more frequently than usual.

NOTE: If your system control has a "Constant ON" feature, you will not always feel warmth, even though air may be blowing. Things to double-check if you have a gas-furnace issue. Check to make sure that your control or thermostat is set in the HEAT position. (You'd be surprised; often that's the problem.) Make sure that the temperature is set warmer than the current indoor temperature. If it isn't, your system won't know to provide heating. Ensure that your furnace's power is on. Try turning the fan to ON using the fan switch on the control or thermostat to test for power to the furnace. Check the circuit breakers in your home's circuit breaker box (electrical panel) to make sure they're in the ON position. Check the furnace power switch to be sure it's in the ON position (it looks like a light switch on a gray box located at the furnace). System not heating enough:If you have one-inch thick furnace filters, a once-a-month change is recommended. Two-inch-thick filters-and other high-capacity pleated filters-usually only need to be changed every other month or less, depending on the type.

If you don't change it, the filter will eventually become so full, it will block the proper airflow and strain your furnace. If you still don't feel that wonderful rush of warmth throughout your home, it's time to contact your local Carrier expert for service. Other signs that may indicate a service call may be in order: You hear your indoor-unit fan coming on but the air from the registers isn't warm or the fan is turning on and off more frequently than usual. Before you request a service call for your ventilator: Check the main power disconnect switch. Verify that the circuit breakers are ON or that fuses have not blown. If you must reset breakers or replace fuses, do so only once. Contact your Carrier® expert for assistance if the breakers trip or the fuses blow a second time. Check for sufficient airflow. Check air filters for accumulations of large particles. Check for blocked exhaust-air grilles or ductwork. Keep grilles and ductwork open and unobstructed.