MovingCool Portable AC Units are Great for Commercial or Industrial Mobile Air Conditioning. MovinCool portable spot coolers and industrial mobile air conditioners are an excellent choice for Computer Server Rooms & Telecom Areas, Healthcare facilities, Outdoor events, Offices & Schools. They’re also designed for industrial areas such as warehouses, assembly lines, injection molding, food processing, etc. MovinCool Portable Indoor AC units and Outdoor Spot Coolers Solve Problems for Computer Server Rooms, Office Areas and Heat Generating Electronics Rooms. In every industry, heat and moisture are dangerous to employees, processes and equipment. Protect your valuable assets in even the hottest environments with MovinCool’s adaptable and cost-effective portable room air conditioner solutions. Click here for MovinCool Portable Spot Cooler AccessoriesKEEP YOUR COOL ON HOT SUMMER DAYS Portable air conditioners provide comfort and flexibility when window installation is not permitted.

Price: Low to High Price: High to Low FAQ About Portable Air Conditioners Looking for a way to keep cool while indoors during the summer? A portable air conditioner could be just what you're looking for. It offers incredible flexibility, letting you move the unit around so you can stay cool anywhere in your home. Check out these frequently asked questions about portable ACs and what you should consider when buying one. What is a portable air conditioner? A portable air conditioner (AC) is a compact air cooling system that can be moved from room to room. They're ideal for use in rooms with no window or a room where you're not able to install a window air conditioner. What should I consider when buying a portable AC? When you're talking about the cooling capacity of an air conditioner, you're talking BTUs or British Thermal Units. The number of BTUs you need to cool a room depends on the size of the room. Generally speaking, a 450 sq. ft. master bedroom will require about 10,000 BTUs, while a 350 sq. ft. den or home office will need about 8,000 BTUs.

Keep in mind that you don't want to get a unit that is underpowered, because the small air conditioner won't be able to effectively cool the room and will likely be constantly running. Conversely, a unit with too many BTUs will cycle too quickly without properly removing the humidity in the room. Water collection and removal system As part of the cooling process, portable air conditioners remove humidity from the air. The water that's collected is either evaporated into the hot air exhaust or collected inside an interior bucket. average cost of 3 ton ac unitDepending on the portable AC you buy, you may need to empty the bucket often. red dot ac parts cross referenceIf you live in a humid environment, consider a unit that can also be used as a dehumidifier.1.5 ton ac best

A portable AC unit is great for a room that doesn't have a window or one that has a window but won't support a window AC. But, window or not, you need to vent the hot air somewhere to cool the room. This is usually done through an exhaust hose that vents the hot air out a sliding window or door, into a drop ceiling, or through a wall. Many portable ACs come with sliding window/door venting kits, and some will come with drop ceiling kits as well. Fans and compressors make noise. Since a portable air conditioner has both, it's going to make noise. Decibel levels for portable ACs typically range from 50 to 60 dB, which is louder than a refrigerator hum but quieter than a vacuum. But, if constant noise bothers you, consider getting a portable AC with a programmable timer or a sleep/night mode so the unit only cycles on at specific times. Want more info about portable air conditioners? Check out some of our resources: Plug-in Blog: Air conditioning 101 Plug-in Blog: Chill out this summer with a portable air conditionerPlug-in Blog: How to map airflow and make the most of your portable air conditioner this summerPlug-in Blog: How to Properly Size Your Air Conditioner

Plug-in Blog: Why we need Air Conditioning – not just for Comfort! Plug-in Blog: Portable vs. Window Based AC Unit: Which One Should You Choose?Plug-in Blog: Cool it now – Here’s your guide to choosing an Air Conditioner The central AC in our apartment is not working effectively in the summer; we are running the AC continuously for 14 hours a day to keep the temperature below 80 degrees. As you can imagine, our electric bill has become a huge problem. (Edit: Please note the maintenance staff are incompetent and management doesn't care about our problem at all -"getting the central AC fixed" is not an option, if it's even fixable) I bought a used portable AC unit (around 11,000 BTU, rated at 12 amps) and plugged it into an arbitrary outlet near a window, because I was always able to do so with a similar AC at my parent's house. The portable unit worked great for a couple of minutes and then tripped the circuit breaker, which also shut off my computer. After a lot of testing I have determined that all of the outlets in the two bedrooms and in the living room run off a single 15-amp circuit (which was 'helpfully' labeled "lighting" in the circuit box).

This rules out every outlet that is within reach of a window. There are two circuits labeled "plugs" in the circuit breaker, but AFAICT they aren't connected to anything (unless they're for the outlets in the kitchen). Obviously because it's an apartment I can't do anything with the wiring, and I can't use an extension cord on an 11,000 BTU AC... Am I screwed here? Is this typical for an apartment with central AC? The full set of circuits is (as they are labeled): Lights: 1x15A (again, this actually covers outlet in 3 rooms, there is no overhead lighting) Garbage Disposal: 15A (nowhere near a window) Dishwasher: 15A (nowhere near a window) Electic Range: 2 x 40A (oven/stove) We resolved the problem with the portable AC by purchasing a heavy-duty, 15-amp, 12-gauge extension cord and running it from the bathroom to the AC by the window. Since the bathroom is on its own circuit, the AC does not trip the breaker. A big thank you to those who suggested this in the comments.

Ironically, management has decided to replace our central air conditioner after I discovered mold in the unit, and their subsequent inspection also revealed it to have a serious Freon leak. Did you find this question interesting? Sign up for our newsletter and get our top new questions delivered to your inbox (). If you test each outlet, and find a drop in voltage on any of them, you might be able to claim that the wiring does not meet code, and force the landlord to make some changes that way. (NEC 210-19 FPN No. 4) in the National Electrical Code states that a voltage drop of 5% at the furthest receptacle in a branch wiring circuit is acceptable for normal efficiency. In a 120 volt 15 ampere circuit, this means that there should be no more than a 6 volt drop (114 volts) at the furthest outlet when the circuit is fully loaded. It also means that the circuit has a resistance that does not exceed 0.4 ohms. This answer was not applicable since the OP had an older 15 amp circuit in the bathroom and not a 20 amp circuit as is required in modern residential wiring.