It’s the norm rather than the exception for a central split-system air conditioner to have one component fail before the other. Most often, the outside unit, exposed to the elements, quits before the inside unit. When this happens, you’ll have to make a decision – whether to replace the component that’s failing, or replace the indoor and outdoor A/C units with a whole new system. In most cases, the second choice is the way to go. Here are some of the reasons. Matched Sets Are Designed to Work as a Team The interior and exterior units of your split-system air conditioning system were engineered to work as team. This provides the best prospect for the A/C’s advertised efficiency and performance. While you may be able to match a new outside unit with the inside component, it will never operate as well as a matched system. If you upgrade to a new, matched air conditioner, you can take full advantage of advances in technology, such as variable-speed and multi-level components in the air handler and compressor.

This may not be possible when matching a new component with an old one. Take Advantage of Improved Energy Efficiency If you purchase a new split-system A/C featuring a high seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER), you’ll benefit long-term from lower energy bills. ice on ac unit outside in winterHowever, if you match a new outside unit with the old inside component, your system will not achieve the rated cooling efficiency.air conditioning units for semi trucks Age Difference Can Be a Problemenergy star rated window ac units If you’re not replacing the indoor and outdoor A/C units at the same time, you probably will continue mismatching the air conditioner components in the future. On the other hand, if your outside unit fails tomorrow, the inside unit probably doesn’t have that long before it goes, too.

Upgrade to a whole new system. Replacing the indoor and outdoor A/C units at the same time is the wise decision. For help finding a new split-system A/C for your Northern Virginia or Maryland home, please contact us at Modern Mechanical. Our goal is to help educate our customers in Northern Virginia and Maryland about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about indoor and outdoor A/C units and other HVAC topics, download our free Home Comfort Resource guide. The compressor will eventually need to replaced in a home air-conditioning system that is used often. If you're air-conditioning unit is having issues and you've diagnosed it as a problem with the compressor, you can replace it yourself with these steps. The refrigerant gas, which was transformed into a high-pressure and high-temperature substance, will be transferred to the condensing coil. The condensing oil, in turn, cools the gas into a liquid state. The gas is cooled using a fan or blower inside the condensing oil.

Another way to cool the gas is through the immersion of the coil into cold water. Usually, compressor replacement is something that should be done by a professional. Although it is not your usual home-improvement project, it is possible to do it yourself, saving money in the process. Step 1 – Determine Compressor Problems Check whether the compressor is still capable of doing its job within the cooling system by checking the temperature of the air coming out from the air-conditioning system. If not, continue to replace the compressor. Step 2 – Identify the Type Before buying a replacement, make sure you identify the correct kind of compressor that you have because there are numerous types. Usually, the model type of the compressor is indicated in the manual. Step 3 – Turn Off Electrical Supply Warning: Failure to completely turn off the electrical supply can result in injury. Before opening the air-conditioning system, you should cut off all power supply.

Step 4 – Remove Refrigerant Next, open the cooling system and remove the refrigerant. The system should be ridden of all refrigerants. The latest environmental protocols require that, instead of releasing refrigerant outside, it should be captured and pumped into a storage cylinder. Step 5 – Cut Refrigerant Lines The line of the refrigerant should be cut. After this, take out the compressor. The area of the compressor is usually located outside, but you can use your manual to find where yours is specifically. Step 6 – Unbolt the Compressor Before replacing the compressor, you have to unbolt it first. When unbolting the compressor of the air conditioner, the hosing attached to it should also be removed. Usually, compressors come with a single bolt. This standard setup provides holding for both the low- and high-pressure lines. The compressor should be unbolted from this holding and the accessory bracket. Step 7 – Replace the Compressor The replacement compressor should be placed within the condenser unit with the mounting bolts.

Connect the lines of the refrigerant once gain. Given that the refrigerant needs replacing, other controls or the coils should be replaced as well. Step 8 – Assemble the Unit Assemble the unit once again, and then connect it to the power source. Check to see if the air-conditioning system is now working properly. Installing Packaged Terminal Air Conditioner UnitsReplacing outdoor unit of home HVAC system with a used unit June 8, 2016   Subscribe The outside condenser unit for my AC, which provides AC to the second floor of my house, has a bad condenser/motor (it's seized). I've had two techs look at it, and both recommend replacing both the outside unit and the air handler in the attic, since the condenser is old (20 years) and runs on R22. Can I just replace the outside unit with a used R22 condenser without worrying about the air handler? Ah, the sweet relief of a cool, dry house after a hot, sweaty afternoon of yard work. Like any mechanical system, AC needs a little TLC to run smoothly, including many tasks you can tackle on your own.

We asked This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey to share his know-how for central air and window units. Why and How to Change Filters Dirty filters kill your AC's efficiency, so install a new one every month during the cooling season for central and window units (or clean them if you've got the washable type). Look for the filter's minimum efficiency reporting value, or MERV, which ranges from 1 to 12 for home AC units; the higher the number, the better filtration it provides (and the more energy needed to pull air through it, so balance air-quality concerns with energy costs). Why and How to Fix Leaks Ducts can lose up to 30 percent of airflow through leaks, and window AC units are notoriously tough to seal properly. Find leaks using the old "smoke trick": For window units, light a stick of incense and hold it where the unit and the window frame meet; for central AC, hold the stick near duct connections. If the smoke blows around, you've got leakage.

For ductwork, use foil tape to seal small gaps and duct mastic for larger ones; for window AC units, stuff foam between the device and the window frame, taping as needed. Why and How to Use a Timer There's no need to blast the AC at full tilt while you're at work. For central units, install a programmable thermostat that lets you set higher temps when you're gone and cooler temps when you're home. Newer window units have built-in timers and adjustable thermostats, or you can buy a timer at any home store for $10 to $20; just make sure it matches your device's voltage. Unless you're going on vacation, don't shut off the system; otherwise, the air compressor will need to work harder to cool your house later. Ducts in hot attics or crawl spaces should be wrapped to keep the air within them cool. You can use spray foam, batt insulation, or rigid-foam insulation. Seal batt and rigid insulation with foil tape (not duct tape). For tight spaces, wraps like Reflectix offer some degree of insulation.

Why and How to Service Compressor/Condenser A central AC system's air compressor and condenser are usually located outside the house, close to your foundation. It works best when there's about 24 inches of clear space in all directions, so get rid of nearby shrubs, tall grass, leaves, and hanging branches. TOH Tip"Install condensers or window units on the north or east side of your house, or build a screen to shield them from the sun. Putting them in direct sunlight reduces their efficiency by as much as 10 percent." —Richard Trethewey, TOH Plumbing and Heating Expert Why and How to Keep Unit Cool Extend the life of your AC system by keeping blinds or shades down during the day; you can also install awnings to shield south-facing windows from intense sun. Consider running the AC in conjunction with floor or ceiling fans to circulate cooled air more effectively. Why and How to Maintain Unit The dealer who installed your central AC (or one you find locally) should put you on a yearly cleaning schedule that goes beyond just cleaning the filters.

Schedule this checkup before the cooling season starts (or do it now if you didn't do it earlier this year), and make sure it includes the following tasks: cleaning and inspecting coils; cleaning or replacing filters; adjusting and replacing fan belts; lubricating motors and bearings; cleaning and checking blowers and fans; inspecting controls and safeties; checking refrigerant and pressures; and verifying operating temperatures. Why and How to Get Airflow Shutting too many interior doors causes central AC systems to go out of balance, meaning there's less airflow in the entire house. If you want some privacy, keep doors slightly ajar instead. Why and How to Upgrade Federal laws require AC units to be a lot more efficient than they were just 10 years ago. For central AC, look for the seasonal energy-efficiency ratio, or SEER; for window units, the measure is simply called the energy-efficiency ratio, or EER. The standards mandate a SEER of 13 and an EER of 8, but devices with higher numbers will cost less to operate.