All room air conditioners drip — or at least they should. But drips in the wrong place or the wrong volume of dripping water may be a sign of a problem with the air conditioner.Why Air Conditioners DripAs the name suggests, air conditioners do more than simply cool the air. They help condition the air and increase comfort by reducing humidity. The basic concept is similar to the condensation that collects on an iced drink. The air conditioner's cooling coil or evaporator absorbs moisture from the room. The airborne water vapor cools into liquid form and then collects on cold surfaces in the air conditioning unit.How Much Air Conditioners DripThe volume of dripping condensation from an air conditioner varies widely depending on humidity levels and temperature, as well as several details regarding the size, efficiency and installation of the air conditioner.On a summer day in a hot, humid climate, each window air conditioner can drip up to two gallons of water per day. Keep in mind that this water can be collected for use in landscape irrigation.

Central air conditioning systems can collect 20 gallons of water per day, and some homeowners collect and divert that water for irrigation. On the other hand, air conditioner condensation should not be collected for drinking water because of the risk of lead exposure and other contaminants.Where Air Conditioners DripThe condensed water should leak from the back of the air conditioner unit whenever the unit is running. The water drips from the cooling coil into channels that should be angled toward the back of the unit. Some of the water is used to cool heating coils in the machine, but most will drip out of the unit.If an air conditioner is not dripping, it may not properly be doing its job of dehumidifying the room. If it is dripping from locations other than the back of the unit, you may have a problem.Troubleshooting Dripping Air ConditionersPerhaps the most common problem with air conditioner condensation is water dripping out the front of the unit, caused by installation errors. Such drips can ruin furniture or flooring, and may lead to mold concerns.

The back of the air conditioner should be slightly lower than the front to encourage proper drainage.Water dripping from the sides or front of the air conditioner could also be caused by air leaks. If the air conditioner is not properly sealed in place, hot outside air could turn into dripping condensation when it hits the cool air conditioning surface s. You may need to caulk and insulate around the air conditioner to reduce such condensation. This will also boost efficiency and could reduce energy bills.If the water freezes into ice rather than dripping out, the air conditioner likely needs servicing. Tilt your window unit slightly lower outside to aid draining. Not only does air conditioning lower the temperature inside your home no matter how hot the day, but it also removes humidity from the air. As the cold refrigerant inside your window air conditioner circulates through the evaporator (an indoor cooling coil) the warm air inside your home creates condensation -- like steam on a bathroom window during a shower.

Newer units are designed to hold much of this water in the pan, where the fan slings it across the condenser (the outdoor coil) to lower the unit's temperature and increase its efficiency. Some units drain continuously, however. To help either drain better, take whichever measures you find necessary. Unplug the window air conditioner, and ensure it is stable. Have an assistant help you during your work; electric heater air conditioner wall unitshe can steady the air conditioner and help remove it from the window if it becomes necessary. small server room ac unitsCheck the window unit to determine if it's level or slanted toward the ground outside. ac unit floodingTo aid proper drainage, the rear of the unit should drop about an inch lower than the front.

"Eyeball" the air conditioner, working from outside; if it's slanted enough, it should appear obvious. If it's difficult to tell, lay a carpenter's level across the top. Drop the rear of the unit lower than the front to increase the unit's angle and encourage good drainage. Even newer units that don't drain continuously generally have an overflow drain in case the water level gets too high. To lower the unit's rear, consider the installation method. If the unit sits unsupported in the window, it's generally a matter of pulling it slightly forward to allow the rear to drop. Braces of various kinds may need to be cut and reattached or otherwise lowered to allow the rear to drop. Find the drain hole or plug designed to expel excess water. On constantly draining units (usually older or very large units) the hole is generally underneath the exterior portion of the unit and may be very small. Window air conditioners designed to retain water may have a hole on the side instead, so when the water reaches a given level it drains away.

Alternatively, you may find a cap underneath the unit that allows you to pour off water before recapping. Unplug the drain hole if you see or suspect it's clogged at or near the entrance. Poke a long, thin wire or even a baby bottle nipple cleaner through the hole, and work it back and forth like you're brushing your teeth. Often this is enough to encourage the water to drain. Pull the unit from the window, remove the outer casing if necessary and set the unit on a clean surface. Lay a thick cloth over the switches and fan motor, and tilt the air conditioner slightly to encourage water to flow away from these electrical parts. Spray the unit, using a low-pressure stream, directing the flow from the inside of the coils out to remove excess dirt and debris. Remove the base pan, into which the condensation drains, to clean the pan or the internal drain system. Unscrew or pull to unclip the base pan (sometimes called a drip tray) from the bottom of the unit. Scrub with a rag and water from the hose.